Skimming Along the Bulgarian Black Sea

If you’re expecting the Bulgarian Black Sea to actually be an inky midnight color, you’re going to be disappointed. But, on the other hand, if you’re looking for shockingly turquoise waters, soaring rust-colored cliffs, and luxury beach resorts hosting vacationing Europeans, you’ll be pleasantly pleased.

Because this is the Black Sea.

We made three stops on the Bulgarian Black Sea and, like Sofia, they showed three totally different sides of Bulgaria’s history and culture.

Cape Kaliakra

The ruins of a medieval fortress that are all but tumbling down the cliffs into the sea. This tiny slice of land juts out into the Black Sea, the wind whipping around your hair and imagination.

I climbed past a sign in Bulgarian that I assumed read “Be careful!” but instead said “Keep out!” to get a photo of this lonely and romantic arch that had been built for a movie set.

One of the most romantic and tragic stories about Cape Kaliakra comes from the tales of Bulgarians’ ongoing struggle with the Ottomans. The Bulgarians were under siege and not doing very well.

As their men fell, the Bulgarian girls picked up the bows and arrows and fought against the invading Ottomans. When the fortress was about to fall, the commander spied the fighting women and saw that they were very beautiful.

“Put down your weapons!” he told them. “It’s a waste of beauty that you should die. You will all come live in my harem and be well-cared for.”

But the Bulgarian girls were so heart-broken at the destruction of their kingdom that they braided their hair together, grasped each other’s hands, and dove off the cliffs to drown.

A sculpture stands in front of the gates of Kaliakra to memorialize them.

Balchik and Queen Marie’s Palace

The Ottomans weren’t the only people the Bulgarians had trouble with. The border between Romania and Bulgaria was fluid for thousands of years. At one point, Romanians occupied this land and Romanian Queen Marie built a beautiful summer residence near the village of Balchik.

Queen Marie built her summer home in the early twentieth century. It’s less of a palace and more of a sanctuary – the actually apartments are quaint rather than regal but the gardens surrounding are romantic and magical. Can you imagine how many trysts must have happened in this rose garden, underneath the arches of the patio?

And I learned what a remarkable woman Queen Marie was. Granddaughter to Queen Victoria, she was beautiful, rich, and incredibly smart. She turned down a proposal from her cousin, the future King George, and instead became engaged to Ferdinand of Romania at a very young age.

But even though she was queen to his king, rumor has it she was the one running the country.

She was a great advocate for the people and very much beloved by them. She served her people as a nurse in World War I, represented Romania at the Paris Peace Conference, and identified ferociously as a Romanian patriot. She was a shocking figure for some as well. She dressed in many different non-traditional fashions, had flirtations and affairs, and was the first monarch to follow the Bahá’í faith, a belief that accepts all manifestations of religion as coming from one god.

Even her death has a romantic ending, as she wished for her heart to be placed in an ornate box and stored in the small chapel at her summer residence. Her children followed her wishes, though after World War II the area was ceded to Bulgaria and the box was moved to Bran Castle.

Varna

When we first rolled into Varna, I wasn’t sure how I felt. Our hotel overlooked the Black Sea, it was true, but the shipping district. Nothing like a bunch of cranes to inspire you.

But our guide – who was always going above and beyond – offered to take us down to the beach on a walk and we got to see Varna’s charm.

We walked through Varna’s shopping center, where they’re doing a lot of work. Varna has beautiful early 20^th century buildings, art nouveau mansions with curling scrollwork and pastel colors. Unfortunately many of these buildings are not in great shape. The paint is peeling and there are spider web cracks along the walls. But the Bulgarians are doing their best to restore this gorgeous houses, especially as Varna is in the running for European Capital of Culture for 2019!

Varna was also the city of free samples! We got free cans of soda and this refreshing pink grapefruit beer!

At the beach I stuck my feet in the water – you have to if you’re there – but it was clouding over so we headed back to the hotel. If you’re young and have more energy than I do, there are some very chic beach bars and clubs! You’ll have to tell me about them.

We only had a few short days on the Bulgarian Black Sea but we made the most of them. Cape Kaliakra, Balchik, and Varna are all so close together, you can easily see them in under 48 hours. But if you’re on a time budget, I suggest Balchik and Queen Marie’s residence. It’s a daydream you have to experience to believe.