The Best Things to Eat and Drink in Montreal (That Aren’t Donuts)

Montreal is the perfect place to wander, eat, and drink. Three of my favorite things! And while I did eat a decent amount of donuts, for those of you who don’t have a sweet tooth, here are some mouth-watering examples of what you can expect to eat and drink in Montreal

Poutineville

Whenever I told anyone that I was going to Montreal, they said, “Be sure to eat lots of poutine!” And I just smiled, while sort of gritting my back teeth. I knew I was going to have some poutine, but I was not excited about. I’ve tried it here in the US – a pale comparison, I know – and it was all soggy fries, cold gravy, and salty cheese.

Yum?

But I knew real Canadian poutine would be better, so on the recommendation of a friend I trekked out to Poutineville. At Poutineville you can ‘make your own’ poutine (the guy next to me had corn dogs in his), but I just went with the house special: potatoes covered with braised beef in red wine gravy with mozzarella and cheese curds. While I waited, I occupied myself by staring across the street at some sort of café/karaoke bar that seemed to have a drag show going on and wondering if I could get myself in later. I did not think about the poutine, feeling like this experience was a traveller’s obligation.

But then the waiter set the massive bowl of poutine in front of me, and all distractions faded away. This is no knock-off poutine.

The potatoes were super crispy and refused to be reduced to sogginess. The braised beef was tender and well-seasoned, elevating the traditional gravy beyond just being a sauce. This is comfort food to the max. I devoured it, stuffing myself way beyond the point of being full, and still I couldn’t finish it. The skeptic had been converted.

There’s poutine everywhere in Montreal, and I’d suggest being selective. I could see how some of the more fast food style joints would turn out subpar poutine. But pick a place that comes highly recommended, and I guarantee you’ll understand why genuine poutine is worth the fuss.

Dieu Du Ciel!

Even pouring rain couldn’t keep me from Dieu Du Ciel! I had heard excellent things about it and was determined to enjoy Montreal’s nightlife, even as a solo traveller. So I walked into Dieu Du Ciel, dripping from the rain, and was immediately enveloped in warmth and joviality. Tables were scattered haphazardly through the open restaurant, it was full but not crowded, buzzing but not noisy – this would be my go-to brewpub if I lived in Montreal.

I headed for an open spot at the bar. I prefer sitting at the bar as a solo traveller. I think it’s considerate and it gives you a chance to chat up the bartender. The bartender at Dieu Du Ciel was very knowledgeable – I am no beer connoisseur, but I told him my general preferences and he suggested four beers that were all exceptional.

Unfortunately they had just run out of their renowned hibiscus beer, but they still had an array of fun and tasty beers on tap. I sampled a delicious pale ale, a wheat-based brew with faint apple notes, a Belgian blond – but my favorite was the Route des Épices – a rye beer with black pepper! I would love to find this beer in New York.

Atwater Market

When I first walked into Atwater Market, I thought it was just the indoor meat and cheese market. It seemed like a great place for locals, but less engaging for tourists who feel strange carrying half a pound of cheese in their purse (though I thought about it).

I did great an excellent (and affordable!) cappuccino from the coffee roaster just inside the doors. I walked outside and was all set to continue on my way when I turned the corner – into full on spring time! Atwater has an amazing outdoor produce and florist market. Chocolatiers, grocers, and bakers all have shops lining the outside of the market. I wandered the outside, enjoying my excellent coffee and marveling at the dazzling florist displays.

Schwartz’s Deli

Montreal’s smoked meats are loudly touted, and I was eager to try Schwartz’s famous sandwich. I picked up mine to go and headed to Mont-Royal Park for a picnic.

That is a lot of meat, I thought to myself, unwrapping my sandwich. There’s a light spread of mustard on one piece of the thin, soft slices of bread, but it’s clear the meat was the star of this uncomplicated sandwich. Better be good, I thought.

Oh, it was. People kept giving me strange looks as they walked by me, sitting on my park bench, devouring my sandwich, and I wasn’t sure if it was because I was breaking some park rule about no picnics or if it was because I was literally licking my fingers as I struggled to keep my meat from falling out of my sandwich.

Schwartz’s is definitely worth the visit, though there’s often a wait for sit-down service. If you’re just ordering to go, there’s a separate entrance for take out orders.

La Distillerie

This place can have all my money, I wrote in my travel notes.

If you like cocktails, it’s imperative you go to La Distillerie. Even if you don’t like cocktails, you need to go. The menu is so enticing that I spent an embarrassingly long time picking a drink, then ended up getting a second. They serve many of these drinks in mason jars, the bartender actually screwing on a mason jar lid and shaking it over her shoulders before popping off the cap and topping it off with a garnish (check out the video on their website to see for yourself!). Yes, this place would fit in perfectly in Brooklyn.

The vibe here was so comfortable. The staff was lovely – they really seemed to enjoy working there and they did a grapefruit shot with everyone sitting at the bar (see, it really pays to grab a stool there!). It made me want to go home and start a bar with my friends. The crowd seemed on the younger side, but I was there early on a Tuesday night.

Jean-Talon Market

When I was at La Cornetteria, I realized how close I was to Jean-Talon Market and decided to walk through on my way to the train station. The walk through Petite Italy was charming – I passed several retro-chic coffee shops occupied by elderly Italian cliques who openly and uninterestedly watched me as I walked by. If I hadn’t just had an iced latte and a frozen espresso, I would have stopped for a cappuccino and chatted my way into their circle (despite not knowing any French or Italian).

Jean-Talon Market has wonderful produce displays, obsessively organized and with tiny sample stands jutting up from the booths with enticing bites of grapefruits or apples or oranges. There are a couple food vendors in the market, including a BBQ stand that made my mouth water, but I was saving my appetite for a Schwartz’s smoked meat sandwich. It would be a perfect picnic, though, to swing through Jean-Talon, select some of the delectable fruits and vegetables, stop in the aromatic Première Moison bakery for some fresh bread, pick up a hunk of cheese, and head to the park.

Montreal is a foodie’s paradise, and I regret only that I had such limited time (and stomach space). Fellow blogger Gourmet Pigs was there at the same time – be on the lookout for her posts about the best things to eat and drink in Montreal!

Have you been to Montreal? What was your favorite meal there?